Woah! :o I feel bad! {PS i feel very sorry :'(} {PSPS Im Endy888 but with a new acc.}
Quote from: Endy8642 on January 02, 2014, 09:24:38 AM
Woah! :o I feel bad! {PS i feel very sorry :'(} {PSPS Im Endy888 but with a new acc.}
Y u be bypassing your forums mute? D:
UPDATE: I was able to charge the battery then I was able to drive it to a mechanic to test the battery then the battery was bad so a mechanic installed a new battery
Guys i'm gonna delete this post because I drove it to the mechanic to test the battery then we installed a new battery
Quote from: Jaguar on January 02, 2014, 09:20:57 AM
Here's what happend:
I went to my car to go run errands I tried starting it and it make a clicking noise
I don't know if it's the starter, battery or the alternator.
Car: 2005 Nissan Pathfinder LE 4x4 The car you've seen between the white one and the gray one that you've seen on the this will blow your mind post
http://forums.kaise123.com/index.php/topic,3660.0.html (http://forums.kaise123.com/index.php/topic,3660.0.html)
Please give me some ideas
I'm very handy with vehicles.
The clicking you heard was the starter solenoid on the inside of the fender engaging and disengaging. This happens very rapidly due to a low battery. When you turn the key inside the lock cylinder of your vehicle, 12.7 volts will go to a connector on the side of the starter solenoid. This will magnetize the solenoid and cause the battery cables (from the battery to the solenoid, and from the solenoid to the starter) to jump and contact,sending power to the starter, making the engine turn over. If your battery is low, it can produce one clunk, a series of clicks, or a buzzing from the solenoid.
This can mean a couple of things.
Either your battery is old as dirt and worn out (somewhat likely being a 2005 model with possibly the original battery, but i doubt it) or your alternator is bad. A bad alternator can either put out not enough amperage and voltage to keep the battery charged, too much amperage and voltage and it's OVER charging the battery, or the diodes inside the alternator have burned up, causing a short that drains your battery down when the vehicle is turned off.
If it's not the alternator and voltage regulator (they're both combined into the alternator assembly on a vehicle like yours. on a vehicle that's old like mine, the voltage regulator and alternator are seperate), then you might want to go ahead and check your battery cables for corrosion and weak/loose connections. A little bit of sandpaper and a wire brush can be used to clean up your battery cables, and a ratchet and a set of box end wrenches will help you take them off/reinstall them. Make sure you know which way the connections went before you take them off.
Your solenoid and starter are just fine. It's a weak battery, or it's due to bad connections, or it's a non-functioning charging system.
When you take your vehicle to have the charging system tested (which you can do at any mechanics shop, at an autoparts store like oreilly's, advance, or autozone), you want to see anywhere from 12.5 volts to 12.8 volts on the battery with the vehicle off, and anywhere from 13.7 to 14.7 volts with the vehicle at idle and running. At cruising rpm (around 1500-ish) you'll want to see 14.2 to 14.7 volts. Anything over 14.7 volts while the vehicle is running means it's over charging. Anything lower than 12.2 volts on the battery with the vehicle off means your battery is about completely drained.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Battery prices now run anywhere from 80 USD to 200 USD, so expect anything in that price range as far as a replacement battery goes. An alternator and voltage regulator assembly for your vehicle can cost anywhere from 100 USD to 400 USD. Which, again, this depends on the vehicle.
Replacing both is a fairly simple task, and i recommend you pick up a multimeter, a set of basic hand tools, and the parts to do so and do it yourself. Or, if you don't trust your own work, you're gonna have to shell out some bucks for a mechanic to do the work for you.
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EDIT: Well, look at that. I went and typed up a nice detailed response to try to help you and the thread is more or less resolved.
I read your post about taking it to the mechanic and getting the battery changed.
If it happens again, your mechanic is a piece of shit that didn't test your charging system, and is now going to make money off you twice. Just giving you a heads up.